Adorable little lizard Leopard Gecko as pets

Leopard gecko

This adorable little lizard Leopard Gecko as pets or sometimes referred to as Leos are known to be nocturnal, or are most active during the night. They are not natives of the United States Continent but from the middle east particularly from India, Afghanistan and Pakistan but have become a favorite pet to both the older folks and kids alike. Probably because of its unique ability to morph and change it skin color sometime during its lifetime. With proper care and handling, a leopard gecko can reach up to 12 inches long.

                                                    Leopard gecko

Proper handling of your pet: Holding your pet or grabbing it in your hands for a long time should be avoided. Your size difference makes you a possible predator, especially for mature Leos who are not accustomed to your presence. Establishing that you are a friend is first needed and in due time your pet will gain your trust. Holding it by the tail should at all be avoided. This is a very soft part of the Leos body and can easily drop off especially when stressed of frightened.

Leopard Gecko Feeding: Leos don't eat veggies or any grass for that matter. Instead, they feed on insects and lofty worms. Always gut load your insects with nutrients at least one day before feeding it to your leopard gecko. This way, the feed is full of healthy nutrients that will eventually be passed to your pet.

Housing your pet: A glass tank should be most suitable for your pet leopard gecko to stay in. The glass surrounding is also very ideal for you to observe and monitor your pet gecko. Just make sure to add a screen on top so that your pet won't escape and at the same time protect it from possible predators.

With proper attention and care, you greatly extend your pet's lifespan up to 20 years. Do it the wrong way and your pet can easily die in your care in less than a year or two. In fact, my pet Leo died in my care because of my inexperience and wrong handling. My friend John saw what I was doing and gave me a helping hand by showing me a guide that taught me what to do and what not.

Handling

Handling leopard geckos can be tricky when you are just starting out. They are not only skittish at times; they can also be very 'fragile'. To prevent unwanted damage to your beloved pet, here are some handling tips to make sure you and your lizard stay happy companions.

Getting the Skittishness Out of the Way

To solve the skittishness, you need some patience. If your lizards are very new and young, you'd do best to leave them to get adjusted to their environment first. Just let them explore their tank and get used to their new home. Once they start calming down, you can start trying to introduce yourself. You can start by placing your hand inside the tank. You don't have to grab them yet... you could just let them walk over your hand and get used to the idea of you being there.

Hand over Hand

Next, you can start some hand over hand walking. If your lizard is comfortable enough to stay on your hand, you can have them walk from one hand to the next. To play it safe, you may want to sit on the floor when you do this, just in case the lizard gets away from you. They don't have sticky feet so they might not be able to hold on to you and fall if they make a mistake. You may need to grab them at this point. This should be done very gently and do not attempt to grab them by their tails! Try to get them somewhere near the shoulders and just gently put pressure using your thumb and index finger. If you can do the hand over hand exercises regularly, handling leopard geckos becomes that much easier.

Tail Mistakes

The reason why you should never grab them by the tail is that they can detach their tails as a defensive measure. Even if they don't see you as a major threat, grabbing their tails can activate a defensive instinct that will cause them to detach. They will grow back but will never look the same. They will usually become more bulbous and in a less appealing color. Seeing that these lizards are prized for their appearances, this is certainly a big concern for any keeper. Plus, the tail is an important part of the lizard's food storage. Without their tails, they can become prone to starvation.

Size and Age

If you are not sure when you should start trying to introduce yourself to your pet physically, try going by their size and age. Try to wait until the lizard is about 6 inches in length before trying to handle them. Don't try to handle newly hatched lizards as they are more prone to panicking and survival instincts will kick in, causing unpredictable behavior and unhealthy stress.

Habitat Heating

Let's start with their living enclosure. These creatures are known to be very hardy and your basic tank will do as long as you provide them with heat. When planning the heating arrangement of the tank, you have to make sure that there are at least two areas, a warmer area, and a cooler area. A temperature of about 90 degrees for the warm and around 80 for the cool area should do.

Hides

You should also employ hides. In the wild, the leopard gecko is a nocturnal animal. This is why you should provide some hiding places for it to take shelter in during the day or when there is light out. This is easier than you think. Many keepers employ simple plastic containers or Tupperware as hideaways. Just cut a hole through the lid or the sides so the lizards can get in.

You need to place the hides on both sides of the tank, the warm and the cool side. Also, a special hide for special situations like giving birth or shedding is needed. This box is usually called the humid box because you'd want to keep it humid, which helps with shedding and egg incubation. You should place this special humid box on the warm side and try to keep it at a temperature of around 90 degrees. You can also vary the temperature of this humid hide when it serves as the nursery. The sex of the lizard babies can be modified with temperature changes. Cooler temps will usually make females and warmer temps males.

Leopard gecko diet

You'd want to feed your Lizards live prey. The preferred food is usually the cricket. This has been a staple food for the lizards for many breeders and keepers. You can also use mealworms, silkworms, and super worms. Although they are not as active, and they won't provide your lizard with some needed stimulation, they are easier to handle. Plus, crickets can sometimes escape and start to cause problems. Because they are more active, crickets can run around the tank and cause stress and unwanted irritation to your lizards. To get around this, you should get to know your lizards better so that you can plan your diets exactly. Give your lizards only the amount of food that they can eat in one sitting.

Substrate for Leopard gecko

You can also use substrates to help with the maintenance. Although some keepers just use the tank floor, you'll find that using a substrate makes the whole process of cleaning and spot cleaning easier. Sand is a popular choice among many enthusiasts. However, you should know that sand can sometimes cause its own set of problems. The sand can be ingested by the lizard and, depending on the size of the lizard or the grain of the sand, problems like intestinal impaction or other digestive system blockages can occur. Use fine-grain sand or use alternative substrates like paper, newspaper, pea gravel, artificial turf, or stones.

Leopard gecko tank

They are really easy to care for as long as you have the proper housing. Leopard Geckos are nocturnal lizards. So a lot of interaction during the day is not required. They liked to be handled, except the young ones until they get used to it. So when purchasing a baby Make sure you handle it daily for small periods of time.

                                               

Housing is very simple and does not require a lot of space. All they require is a ten-gallon aquarium, if you want something bigger i wouldn't go larger than a twenty-gallon aquarium. You will need to purchase a screen top, Either an incandescent light fixture or a fluorescent one. Fluorescent light is not needed but provides better viewing. You will need to purchase the necessary bulbs to go in your fixture. For fluorescent a 2.0 or 5.0 will be sufficient, incandescent bulbs 15-25 watt, depending on the size of your environment. An under-tank heater is required, and this of course gets stuck to the underside of the tank on the outside. Make sure you place this where the Gecko will be sleeping. Proper substrate, they are desert animals so Calci-Sand is the best to purchase. It is digestible and provides your pet with calcium when they ingest it.

Now you can decorate it. Your new pet will need somewhere to sleep. You can either make a den out of rocks or wood, or you can buy one that is already made. Inside of the den, you should put moss inside and keep it moist daily, which will help your Gecko shed its skin. They do drink water, so there should be a water dish in there. Do not put a plastic one in there, because this will be a place for unwanted bacteria to grow. Most pets stores carry ones that are safe for your pet. Change the water on a daily basis. You can also add fake plants and wood from the pet store to decorate your tank.

Leopard gecko lifespan

                                                   

Do you want to make sure that your pet leopard geckolifespan is maximized and that you get to keep your beloved ornamental pet for a long time? You can if you follow some of these tips and tricks.

How Long is Long?

The longest recorded leopard gecko lifespan was around 20 years. The average is around 15 to 16 years. That is not a short time and is great news if you want to keep a pet for extended periods of time. If you can keep your lizard happy and healthy, you're sure to have at least a decade's worth of companionship.

Hardy Hatchlings

These lizards are known, survivors. Back in their native lands, they have to be because they are not the biggest of creatures and they are not at the top of the food chain. Plus, they are not known to be caring parents. Mother lizards will leave their eggs to fend for their own as soon as they lay them. Because of this, they are born with great survival instincts that they can use almost as soon as they hatch. The average hatchling will be able to survive on its own without outside help. In a short span of around 2 days, they will be ready to hunt and survive. This is one of the biggest advantages of keeping these pets as they know how to survive.

Environmental Adjustments

Of course, these creatures are well adapted to survive in the environment they evolved in. This means that in order to keep your lizard happy and healthy, you need to duplicate some important aspects of their natural environment.

They live in the desert so they are accustomed to heat. You'll need to duplicate the lighting and heating of their environment so you'd want to invest in some sufficiently powered lights to keep your tank at a temperature of about 90 degrees. However, you also need to create areas of cooler temp. These lizards may need to cool themselves down from time to time so you have to create a cooler area that stays at a temp of about 80 degrees or lower. Make sure that the size of your tank is sufficient to accomplish these two distinct temp areas. Around 20 gallons should be enough for one lizard. Don't skimp on your temperature devices! Buy an electronic temp probe to make sure you have two distinct areas.

Although they are desert dwellers, they are nocturnal... which brings up some important keeping tips. The first is that they do not need a UV light. Unlike some other lizards that bask in the sun to get their calcium requirements, these particular lizards do not do this. You still need to attend to their calcium needs, but you'd probably have to better with powder supplements.

The next tip is that they also need places to hide away when the lights are on during the day. You'll do well to provide them with hide boxes constructed from simple plastic containers. Just cut a section of the lid to make an entrance for your lizards. You'd also want to add a humid box. They use humid areas to help them shed their skin and lay their eggs. Just construct another box with sphagnum moss added for moisture.

You can use sand as a substrate but be aware that there are disadvantages to using this. Incorrect sand like sand that is too thick or too sharp can cause digestive problems because they will naturally ingest some sand. If they are too thick or sharp, they can start to cause injury and blockages which can prove fatal if they can no longer eat due to the sand in their bellies. You can use carpeting, pea gravel, newspapers, or even the bare tank floor as alternatives.

Dietary Tips

Of course, no lizard will be happy without a proper diet. Live crickets are one of their favorites and you can feed them a steady diet of these live critters. Live food is not only healthier; they also provide the lizard with stimulation, much like they get from hunting their food in the wild. Be careful not to place too many crickets in the tank. If your lizard can't finish the live crickets, some of them will hide in the tank and will scurry about, causing the lizard stress.

Leopard gecko habitat

                                                                 

Do you need to know more about leopard gecko feeding? These designer pets need proper food and diet to remain healthy, and you wouldn't want your living jewel becoming unhappy and unhealthy. So helping you out, here are some tips and advice on proper diets and food.

Crickets: The Staple

The cricket remains one of the most popular leopard gecko feed staples. The live cricket is a favorite of the lizards and hunting them around the tank gives them stimulation as well as a healthy diet. You can feed your gecko around 4 to 8 crickets a day, depending on the size and appetite of the lizard. A lizard will pretty much consume anything that can fit in its mouth so just be sure to adjust your choice of crickets and the number to the size and capabilities of your pet.

One thing to remember when feeding your pet live crickets is that uneaten crickets can sometimes get away from the lizard and scurry about the tank. All that activity can become stressful for your pet and the longer the cricket survives in the tank the worse the problem gets. Crickets have even been known to bite lizards when they get really hungry. Try to put in only the number of crickets that your pet can eat in one sitting.

Leopard gecko food

You can also opt for silkworms or mealworms. The advantage of these feeds is that they don't move around too much. You can actually put them inside a bowl so that the lizard won't have to chase them around the tank. However, as lizards do like hunting active prey, the worms may not provide the stimulation your lizard also needs. A combination of the two can yield good results and some keepers do exactly this. Mealworms and silkworms can still cause some problems should they escape from their bowl. They can burrow into the loose substrate so be careful, especially if you use sand.

Dusting Supplements

You can also supplement your pet's diet by dusting your feed with the many powdered supplements available on the market. This ensures that your pet gets all the nutrients he or she needs in order to stay healthy. Just make sure your feed doesn't shake off all the powder before you get them to the lizard. Crickets do not like getting powdered so they will try to shake off the supplements. It is best that you feed them to your pet as soon as you get the powder on.

Final Tips

To a close, let's discuss gut loading and parasites. You have to be aware that any parasites in the feed will be transferred to your precious pets. Crickets are notorious for being carriers of bird and lizard parasites that can cause your pet harm. To avoid any unwanted complications, try to buy your crickets from reliable sources. Avoid crickets that were transferred or transported via egg cartons. Egg cartons sometimes contain leftover chicken or bird eggshells. These eggshells are sometimes loaded with parasite eggs. The crickets will pretty much eat anything so if they consume the eggshells, they can be carrying the parasites in them.

Gut loading is the practice of feeding your live food with healthy foods so that the nutrients get passed on to the pet. You can try feeding your crickets with fruits and vegetables 24 hours before you give them to your pet.

Leopard gecko health problems

Here are some common leopard gecko problems you can encounter and some tips and tricks on how to deal with them.

Sand Problems

Sand is a popular and easy-to-use substrate material. It allows easy cleaning and spot cleaning of the tank, with sand easily replaceable. However, sand can sometimes cause problems when the lizards ingest them. This isn't an uncommon occurrence. The crickets and other live insects you feed your lizards will scurry about the sand and it isn't that hard for a hunting lizard to get some sand in its mouth when it strikes. Normally, this shouldn't pose a problem, but if the lizard ingests too much over a certain amount of time, it can start to cause blockages or intestinal impaction.

To get around this problem, try to make sure you get fine grain sand. Something like.5 mm would be safe (ask about the grain size from the store you bought your sand from). The reason for this is that the finer grain sand should have no problems passing through the lizard's digestive system even if the lizard ingests it. You can use larger grain sand for larger morphs of the lizard but to be sure, fine grain is still the safest way to go. Also, don't use sand for baby lizards. Even fine grains can cause problems for their relatively smaller digestive tracts.

Cricket Problems

Crickets are a staple food for your pet but if you're not careful, having uneaten crickets running around the tank can cause stress and agitation for your lizard. Don't put too many crickets in at any one time. Start out with a modest number and try to get a feel for how many your pet can eat at any one time and stick to that number.

You also have to check where your crickets come from and how they get to you. Crickets can carry parasites from the food they eat. If you aren't sure where they came from, you won't be able to check if the crickets ate anything that could give them the parasites. The crickets can even come into contact with parasites through the containers used to transport them. Sometimes, egg cartons are used to ship the crickets and these egg cartons are used to contain the eggs of chickens or other birds that may carry parasites. If the cricket eats any of the leftover eggshells, the parasites can transfer to them.

Sanitation Problems

There's no getting around it, your lizard is going to poop and dirty up the cage. This can be another source of leopard gecko problems. Fecal matter left in the tank can start to breed bacteria and other harmful material. Water left stagnant for too long also leads to similar problems. Try to maintain the tank by changing the water daily and clean out any fecal matter every week. You should also replace the substrate and scrub the tank with an antiseptic at least once a month.

Disease

Your lizards are also affected by diseases. If you suspect any of them being sick, it is probably best to quarantine that lizard for a couple of weeks. Remember that most diseases that affect your lizard pets can transfer to other reptiles or herpatiles, making quarantine even more important.

Caring of Leopard gecko

                                                      

Here are some helpful tips for a healthy lizard diet.

Staple Crickets

The leopard gecko feeds on insects, making it an insectivore. Crickets are a staple food for these creatures so you may have to take the time to find some live crickets to keep your pet happy. Live food is the way to go as you'd want to duplicate some conditions in the wild to keep your pet active. It won't enjoy the food it doesn't have to hunt as much as the ones that give it some sort of a challenge.

Be warned though... crickets have a downside. They do bring about certain problems. The first one would be escaping the lizard. The uneaten crickets will run around the tank and cause unwanted stress and agitation for your pet. They can also bite the lizard and possibly injure it. The second problem it causes comes from the fact that crickets can carry parasites. Anything the cricket eats, the lizard eats, so if the cricket comes into contact with any parasites, your lizard may be in danger as well.

Cricket Tips

It's best to buy crickets from reliable sources. You increase the chance of your crickets carrying parasites if you buy them from unofficial sources. Also, you can powder your crickets with vitamins and supplements to give your lizard some extra diet helpers. Gut loading, the practice of feeding your crickets healthy foods like fruits and vegetables 24 hours before giving them to the lizard, is also recommended.

Try to start small. Around 4 crickets will probably do to start, but you'll have to estimate how much your pet can actually eat. If he can finish off the four without a hitch, try increasing it. A diet of 8 crickets a day would still be normal. However, if you find that your pet is having difficulty with the crickets, then try to remove some extras. It may take some time but it's worth it to prevent the stress and other problems they can cause.

Alternatives

You can also go for some alternative foods like mealworms or silkworms. These won't scurry around the tank as much as the crickets and you can actually keep them in a bowl so that your pet won't have to chase them. This reduces the chance of any escape but your pet may not be as happy with them... they won't give him as much of a challenge! They can still cause problems if they get out of the bowl as they can burrow through sand or similar material if you're using such material for substrate.

Treats

Some foods are considered treats in the lizard world. Pinky mice and wax worms are good examples. Just remember that these are meant as treats and not as a staple food. Treat them like chocolate... it's nice to have a few bites every once in a while but you can't expect to live a healthy life just on chocolates alone.

Leopard gecko breeding

                                                       

Breeding leopard geckos have become a topic of interest for more and more reptile enthusiasts as the popularity of these creatures has grown. The good news is that breeding leopard geckos in captivity is not all that difficult. In fact, the wild varieties and hybrids we have today are a testament to just how readily these lizards reproduce in the habitats we provide for them.

As you can imagine, one of the first things we need to learn when breeding leopard geckos is simply how to distinguish the sexes. If you got your geckos from a breeder or someone who could tell, then you may already know if you have boys, girls, or some of both. But if you don't know what you're dealing with, there are some tips that can help you sort things out.

If you turn you leopard over and look at the bottom, you can look to see if there are any hemipenal bulges behind the vent on the tail side. If so, it's likely a male. Males also have pre-anal ports. These form a "V" shape behind the hind legs right above the vent. The females, of course, will not really have the bumps or bulges behind the vent. They might instead have pre-anal pits instead of large ports. The only thing you want to bear in mind is that over-fed females may seem to have the bulges, but they are actually just fat pockets!

Okay, if you have the geckos sexed, the next thing you need to realize when breeding leopard geckos is exactly when best to do so. They need to be full grown. The boys should be about 8 months old, with a weight of at least 45 grams. The ladies need to be a bit closer to 50 grams. And, in fact, it's best if they are about a year old.

The next big thing you need to be prepared for when breeding leopard geckos is the varied responses you might get when the two are put together. The fact is, they may not even breed right away. It could even take a few days. Generally, the male gets increasingly aggressive and can bite at the female. However, the female may not be ready to breed, in which case she may bite back. Although it could appear they are fighting, this is completely normal. You might even hear the male violently shake his tail back and forth. Yes, I said, "hear." It can be quite loud. The bottom line is that you have to be patient when breeding leopard geckos. If they don't mate after a few days, just give it a rest and try again later.

The next aspect of breeding leopard geckos has to do with preparation for little babies. Think about how the female will want a suitable place to lay eggs, such as a moist area made within the enclosure. Within four weeks you can anticipate finding a couple of whitish eggs with an oval shape. Clutches can come 2-4 weeks apart and note that you can breed these guys to produce about 8 clutches a year.

One of the most interesting aspects of breeding leopard geckos is the fact that you have an impact on the outcome. See, the eggs, once laid, are to be put in an incubator. What we've found is that you can set the incubator for a lower temperature near 80 degrees and generally get females. By contrast, you can ratchet it up to about 90 degrees and end up with more males. A point somewhere in the middle usually yields a pretty fair mixture of both!

How successfully breed

The breeding season extends from late February/early March until September. In nature, it is triggered by rising temperatures after hibernation geckos.

That is why some breeders recommend practicing a period of hibernation of 1 to 2 months (November-December), during which the duration of lighting, temperature, and food are gradually reduced. Personally, I do not practice hibernation and prefer to use this time to rest well fed and give them a maximum of energy and nutrient reserves (including their tail) for the future breeding season. They ensure good health, is certainly a factor for success in the reproduction of leopard geckos.

2. Sexing leopard gecko It is relatively simple sexing leopard gecko adult.

Here are three hallmarks of male to distinguish it from the female:

* The preanal pores (small colored dots) that form a V just before the bulges hémipéniens. * The two bulges hémipéniens (balls covering hemipenis) just before the cloaca (beginning of tail). * The male is usually wider at the base of the neck than the female.

The female exhibits no preanal pores, or bulges hémipéniens.

The first 2 comments are reliable and sufficient to determine the sex of a leopard gecko. For the third criterion, in some cases, the difference at the base of the neck is not hollowing between males and females. Finally, it should be noted that incubation plays an essential role in determining the sex of the leopard gecko.

3. Age of breeding

For successful reproduction it is important that breeders are healthy and sexually mature. For if the male can be ready to play without problem from 10 months, this is not the case of the female. A female too young might monopolize the calcium for egg formation at the expense of its frame, which could halt its growth, making it more fragile and even reduce its life expectancy.

It is therefore strongly advised waiting until a female has completed its growth and is sufficiently robust (15-18 months) to bring together a breeding male.

4. Leopard gecko facts

On the evening, minutes before extinguishing the lights in the terrarium, a male runner before showing signs of his intentions.

It will then be wagging his tail in the sweeping right to left at an astonishing speed. I am always amused to attend these parades because according to your substrate, then the noise is quite striking and the substrate spins a little in all directions.

The male gets the message and began to chase the female. It will then attempt to repeatedly bite the female on the neck to immobilize. This made successfully, the female and male inflorescence seized his chance. Mating usually lasts one to two minutes.

Once completed, the two partners make a careful toilet of their genitalia. The mating leopard gecko is relatively fleeting, and it is not necessarily obvious to observe. But with the usual observation, and the sound of this parade so special "helicopter tail" of the male, it becomes easier to detect and attend this coupling.

5. Clutch

After mating, the gestation. The eggs will then be formed in the oviduct of the female that we call pregnant. Approximately 2-4 weeks later, it lay. It consists of 2 eggs large enough relative to the size of the female. Several observations lead to the provision:

* In As you can see the eggs, two white masses, through the abdomen. Although gradually ceasing to feed, the female then takes the volume but its tail, constituting its energy reserve, thinning somewhat. * It will seek to benefit from exposure to UV rays before lights out.

The eggs will be deposited overnight in a humid chamber consisting of moist vermiculite. The female takes care to cover before leaving the wet box. After graduating, she has suddenly lost weight and continues to scratch around the box as if trying to cover a few more eggs. In the evening it will have a big appetite and we should then not hesitate to eat it at will to immediately resume strengths and reserves in its tail, the interval between each spawning was relatively short (2-4 weeks). Note that the male will not hesitate to cover the female on the night of spawning.

6. Incubation

Once the female has laid her eggs in the humid chamber, it is necessary to let her out of herself before attempting to remove it. This allows the female to cover them, it will also feel that their eggs are protected.

Once the female release, the vermiculite was removed with a soft brush to collect the eggs. To find them most easily in the humid chamber, it is convenient to use a translucent box.

Leopard gecko eggs

                                                  

Then the eggs are retrieved gently using a small spoon, for example, ensuring that it does not return and are transferred to the incubator by placing them in boxes lined with moist vermiculite. As stated above, the temperature of incubation plays an essential role in sex determination in the leopard gecko.

This is what we call T.S.D. (Temperature Sex Determination).

Incubation temperatures: Temperature (° C) Sex Incubation 26 ° to 28 ° Female 55 to 65 days 29 ° to 31 ° Male or Female 45 to 55 days 32 ° to 33 ° Male 35 to 45 days

We must ensure that the temperature does not drop below 26 degrees and does not exceed 33 °, otherwise, the life of the embryo will be greatly compromised. The incubation period is longer or shorter depending on the temperature (see above).

Tip: It is essential to regularly monitor the eggs placed in the incubator. If an egg takes on a dubious (mold growth, dropping of the shells...), it is best to remove it from the incubator after first "admire" when in doubt.

Mirer an egg is to be carried across by a light beam (preferably in black) to verify the presence or absence of an embryo in the egg.

7. Hatching

Depending on the temperature of incubation, it is relatively easy to plan hatching eggs. Provided and record the dates of each egg.

Furthermore, the appearance of an egg to hatch will change suddenly. It will take a whiter color and swelling more towards a more rounded. The outbreak is so close and with any luck, it is possible to attend. It takes about two hours from the time the little gecko pierces the shell.

If there is a little longer in its shell, does not seek to remove, because it is possible he still uses his reserve "vitelline.

The outbreak ended, the little leopard gecko, striped black and white/yellow (for the common phase) will be placed in a small terrarium (20 x 30 cm) lined with a paper towel. It is advisable to place a juvenile in the terrarium to avoid stress mutual.

It was after 2 or 3 days (first molt) the gecko took his first meal. Do not try to propose live insects during these few days which could cause unnecessary stress. To start the diet, small crickets can be used.

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